Serai Kabini Experience

At Serai Kabini, “Going back to the Jungle” , takes on a whole new dimension
Urban spaces tend to resemble high intensity pressure cookers. The daily grind of living to the rhythm of alarm clocks takes its toll and any incentive to get away from the concrete blocks of insanity is always welcome. This time, the avatar of an excuse came in the form of our son’s birthday and we decided to flee from the barrage of planning party paraphernalia-so it was adieu to the themed cake, invitations and return gifts.

We started on a high note, leaving early morning to avoid Bengaluru’s infamous vehicles. The city at break of dawn is peaceful, a calm before the storm of morning madness begins to reign. There are plenty of snapshot picture card moments .On the highway, a bullock cart ambles in complete irreverence to the gleaming machines that zip past. A woman in a cotton candy pink sari driving an open jeep ,mobile phone in hand. School children in starched white and purple uniforms wave oblivious to the burden of education that they carry on their backs. A bus hurtles in breakneck speed almost crashing into a lorry whose message” speed kills not thrills” no one reads. The signposts of globalisation, the cherry red and yellow MC Donald’s looks jaded next to the eateries promising good "Panjabi" food and hot "thatte" idlis. We stop at a small quaint heritage- like eatery, “ Kadamba” advertising its Iyengar leanings very proudly. True to its name the breakfast of Pongal, Masala Dosai and Filter Coffee in steel tumblers is perfect comfort food.
Back on the road, we move on through Ramnagaram (Gabbar Singh just left the building!),Chanapatna , Mandya , Srirangapattan and decide to avoid the Mysore city. Serai Kabini is about two hours away from Mysore and the roads wind into picturesque tableau of green paddy fields, watering holes and open sky. There are clearly marked signboards along the way with various resorts jostling for one’s attention. As we move towards the last twelve km to our resort the road gets treacherously bumpy. And every bone in our body feels the brunt of the bump. It is the view outside that helps soothe the potholed encounters –vast stretches of fields, dotted by white washed houses and people carrying on with their daily routine. A Primary Health Care Centre, a Government school and we have crossed into another world . A few km later the reassuring sign of Serai which is like that proverbial Coffee pot at the end of the rainbow !
Serai-First glimpses
Sera Kabini has an understated elegance. The staff is waiting at the reception with a traditional lamp and string of jasmine flowers. It takes a while for us to orient ourselves to where we are. Fresh tender coconut water, formalities and briefing done, we are ready to begin our journey. The wide open spaces delight the child in us (my son is already somersaulting his way out) and we head to our rooms. Sera Kabini has a choice of three types of accommodation - villa,terrace and residence villa (which comes with your own swimming pool) and seems to be a honeymooners special. All the rooms face the river and our terrace has a secluded garden space with a hammock. While the manager had briefed us earlier about the itenaryand activities, nothing seemed as exciting as the hammock and a nap in the sun. My son was thrilled when we told him that the snacks at the mini bar were all his (the first day being complimentary!) . Lunch is served in a charming open spaced restraunt and the walk from our room to lunch makes us even hungrier. Meals at kabini alternate between buffet and a set ala carte menu and the choice of cuisine offers both Local dishes , Chinese and Continental fare. Resort like food can jade the palette but here the food is deliciously simple and it takes a lot of will power to reduce the frequency of trips from table to buffet!

“Elephant Memory”

Safari lessons-Seven year olds behave better than Software professionals!
Serai offers two kinds of safaris-boat and jeep. In a recent development, to regulate the proliferation of resorts and jeeps, the Forest and Wildlife department has tightened its guidelines. All safaris are routed to the Jungle Lodges , which is a Karnataka State Tourism Initiative. The naturalists at the resort welcomed the move saying that this helps stop the jungle from being overrun by hordes of vehicles which has also lead to lots of animal sightings. We book for an afternoon safari in a valiant attempt to forego an afternoon siesta. A vehicle takes us to jungle lodges and we make our way to the Jetty. The naturalists have already briefed us about maintaining silence during the ride and while the four families with kids take it seriously , a group of four young software professionals flaunting their newly acquired high powered cameras seem to feel that rules are meant to be broken. Throughout the trip they had to be reminded to be quiet and they speak in the tone of the new, young, rich, urban , shining India. If money could buy them cameras ,they feel that it was their moral birthright for forests to produce animals on demand.They should take some etiquette lessons from the seven and eight year old kids on the boat!

Down the kabini river

To be in the middle of a vast expanse of water is a humbling experience. The waters are surrounded by three National Parks and the afternoon promises animal sightings as it is a hot day and the river plays a watering hole for many bird and animal species We see Siberian Cranes and Coronets making their nests on clumps of tree that emerge mysteriously like apparitions from the river. A dash of bright blue makes its way across –it is a kingfisher. A few black ripples dance through the waters...tadpoles, the bemused naturalist informs us. Meanwhile the group of Software professionals loudly display their googled knowledge of the various species. The rest of the group do their best to ignore them. There are sambar deer and then we spot the rather shy Otter, known as theIndian Water Dog, taking its dip in the river. At a small grass land water body we spot a Marsh Crocodile,mouth wide open. As the boat draws closer and stops for more shutterbug opportunities, we watch the crocodile slip gracefully into the water. "But what about the Elephants", the group demands. In the distance, we spot an Elephant near the bamboo groves. They are so beautiful in the wild, camouflaged brilliantly, covered in jungle dust,a far cry from the chained elephants one sees at temple rituals and circuses which makes a mockery of these gentle giants. By now, the sun starts to set and the whole landscape has taken on another hue.This time, as we head back, the boat is silent, each of us caught in our moment of reflection. Something about the river brings out the stillness and silence in children and all of us.The group thankfully have gone to sleep.

Marsh Crocodile in river "Peaceful predator"

Silver stars and bonfire
Night falls early in the resort and the sky is dotted with silver sequined of stars. A bonfire set up near the bar provides warmth a and comfort and we close our eyes in sheer fatgue.The next morning is the jeep safari. To be up at five o clock is seems so daunting, There is a temptation to snuggle into the soft bed but we ready ourselves and head to or vehicle which is ready to take us to the jungle.
Leopard Spotting
By six o clock we are in the Rajiv Gandhi Park.The morning air is so cold and the naturalist provides us with some shawls. The jungle is slowly waking up and as we drive further into the jungle one wonders who is watching home. A heard of spotted deer freeze in picture perfect stance as we drive past. A Peacock gobbles a bright red piece of Watermelon. fruit The birdcalls change as the hour progresses.To be in the heart of a jungle is amazing. We are looking to spot the Cat-The Tiger or Leopard. Trees take on misty hue and we spot a few Lemurs sitting high on treetops, the security officers of the forest. In a forest there is no sense of time and we feel a sense of disorientation. As we make our way back , we are told by one of the jeeps passing us that they have spotted a leopard. Suddenly the whole energy in the group changes. Everyone is on red high alert. We make our way to the route and find another jeep with cameras. The silence and excitement is palatable. The jungle is ominously silent and all I can see are tree and shrubs,"Alli....", shouts the driver in the group. And there he is , the leopard sitting between the branches of a curved black tree. Amazing..how well he has camouflaged himself and through the binoculars we spot him. He looks content and at peace with his belly full. With all the hype surrounding the Big Cat, there is nothing like seeing the animal in its habitat. It stuns you into silence and we reluctantly head back with a renewed respect for the forest and the Cat.

Leopard spotting again
The next morning my son and husband decide to take the early morning safari his birthday and an early start seems to be on their minds. I am positive that they will come back with stories of deer and peacocks but they return armed with an extraordinary sighting. Just as they had entered the jungle, through the shrubs, a Cat was spotted.Apparently,he walked around, climbed on top of a log and made his way throughthe wooden trail. For twenty minutes there was absolute silence .The photographs tell the story and they are amazing.

Leopard in hiding






Resort Activities
While the safaris are the main attraction, we managed to squeeze in some time to take bicycles and go for a ride outside the resort. There are trails leading from resort to river and back and it is great fun to explore the terrain as a family. For some indulgent pampering there is a spa offering a range of treatemts.But these pale into comparison as you just sit and watch the river flow, the sunlight creating little sparkling diamonds. When your friendly waiter, serves you hot pakodas and coffee, you tell yourself that there is nothing like a little luxury while enjoying the getting back to the basics

Homeward Bound
And there was something special about celebrating my son’s birthday with a simple homemade cake from the resort and having newly found friends join the party who very sweetly came back to the already surprised birthday boy with presents. It is hard to say goodbye-to the friendly staff, to the waiter who by his own initiative taught the kids to shape napkins into candles and of course to the river.

As we head home, we are already making plans to return.

Serpant Eagle- Bidding Farewell"

Photograps: Shyam Prasad Rajan

Journey to Destiny

The journey to a Destination named destiny

It is not the journey that matters; it is the destination. Some clichés are meant to be rewritten-the journey to Destiny was in itself a road paved with adventure and experience. Bumpy, sometimes muddy, often times nonexistent, the road trip from Bangalore to Ooty was a sensorial adventure-the final stretch to Destiny promising more delights in store.

Bangalore escapades

Loading our packed bags, emergency ration of sandwiches , biscuits and other “things we might need in case of..” from our well thought out hypothetical scenarios already gave us a sense of being on a holiday. The challenge was to leave Bangalore city before the onslaught of traffic-we were in for a surprise. Sunday morning brought with it an army of trucks, lorries and holiday makers who all obviously had the same agenda in mind. Moving away from the Whitefield-Sarjapur area, we all found ourselves breathing easy. There is something about the concrete jungle that fills one with a certain sense of anxiety. At Banashankari, we lost our way and stopped to ask for directions. Like Alice in wonderland asking the white rabbit-the first person confidently pointed us in the wrong direction and fate intervened in the form of a wizened auto driver, who in eloquent kanada set us on the right path. It turned out to be a blessing in disguise, as we discovered a shortcut that took us out of the city and onto the Bangalore-Mysore highway.

Highway tales- Sighting of golden arches!

Indian highways are a novel in themselves. Often you will find a bovine nonchalantly ambling across the four lanes with cars zipping across, mirroring a country where the old jostles with the new. And this cross road provides a delightful visual adventure-A bus stops, passengers in tow and is meticulously being decorated with flowers and marigold garlands. No one seemed to be in a particular hurry. And then there are the lorries -massive vehicles, sometimes potential death traps ,often purveyors of “social messages” and philosophies- “Life is drama , man is actor , “speed thrills but kills”, “we two ours one” all hurtling in break neck speed down the roads.

It is never monotonous stretches of tar road. It is broken by color and nothing was more surreal than seeing a golden M-yes, that neon synthetic golden arches, the king of hamburgers, announcing a drive thru restaurant. And this in what seems like the middle of nowhere. That the Coffee Days have already made inroads into the highways we learnt on our last trip. And then the dhabas-dusty charpoys where you can sip hot milky tea and samosas for fraction of the cost. We wave to a group of school children in checked uniform and as we roll down the windows, the wind almost whistling in delight.

The roads from Mysore to Bangalore are excellent-we make our way through Ramnagaram, Channapatna (the sight of a line of colored rocking horses never fails to delight), Maddur, Mandya and Srirangapatana. Each of these townships are a history buffs delight-and legends and folktales are plenty.

Mysored

( A royal stroll...Mysore style!)

Three and a half hours later we reached Mysore. Bangalore’s skyline seems like a distant dream-we have the chamundi hills before us. We decide to drive through town-And suddenly everything seems to be in slow motion. People take their time to cross roads and though it has become busier, it still retains a certain charm. Another little discovery is a wonderful eatery that is located en route to Nanjangud.Kamat Bhavan unlike its crowded namesake on the highway, is a favourite pit stop but is not as crowded. This is the kind of trip where we were not in any particular hurry which meant we went through our Mysore masala dosai , vadai and coffee with meticulous care!

The journey from Myore to the Bandipur, via Nanjangud is where the landscape changes. Open fields of green, a sudden water pool with migratory birds, women washing colored cloth of pink, green-and in the car, is Aruna Sairam with her rendition of a racy tilana.Does nirvana get any better!-The stretch between Gundulpet and Bandhipur takes its toll on the car but we push on excited at the prospect of entering forest territory.

By the time we reached Bandhipur Forest, clouds had formed and the slightly overcast weather is perfect to drive through the sanctuary. Even with signs which clearly warn people not to stop and picnic in this Wild life reserve-we see a wedding party stop for a perfect wedding opportunity in the middle of the jungles-the beaming bride and groom posing under a canopy!!-We drive in complete silence-the change in the tree scape is stunning- suddenly from a medley of bush and tree the road takes us through a bamboo grove. Their golden branches jostling and nestling with each other-it commands respect and as our drive takes us further into the sanctuary, we strain ourselves to spot any creature-But today, the trees seem to command all the attention.

Mudhumalai

The guards at the border dutifully take our registration numbers and twenty rupees!-we bid adieu to Karnataka and step into Tamilnadu-Mudhumalai forests. The forest guards are friendly and advise us to take the Masnanguddi –kalatti route. Thirty six hairpin bends but saves you 50 km they say- we decide to take up the challenge. The drive through the Mudhumalai range is again an oasis of green and brown. We try to spot any chance of a tiger or elephant. But the forest greets us with silence. We decide to stop at kallati for tea, a smoker’s break and a stretch. The cold, clean air is like a rush of adrenaline.We take big deep breaths, our body trying to get acclimatized to the pollution free zone!-Chatting with the young girl at the tea shop, we find that she is from calicut.Good tea and it is one the road again.

The hair pin bends really test one’s driving skills. They snake through and at each turn offer you breathtaking views. You have the thrill of an amusement park coupled with some great photo opportunities-Now who is complaining!!-At each bend we read our hairpin bend score-9\36, 10\36 and for the next forty minutes, we are playing the numbers game .It is an instant counting lesson for our four year old.

Plastic Trail

Ooty or ootacumund at last!-Though we had been told that Ooty had started to resemble most crowded towns in India, the natural landscape it is blessed with takes your breath away. Coniferous trees, open meadows, pastures, horses ..It is like we have stumbled upon some little piece of Switzerland-and therefore what really offends is the jarring trail of plastic that the travelers bring with them-the ubiquitous potato chip orange and blue packets, kinley water bottles, paper plates remnants of a picnic are strewn carelessly despite the signs proclaiming that the Nilgiris is a plastic free zone. Regimentation,Singapore style , highly recommended!

Car park...where art thou?

We decide to skip lunch and head straight for Destiny. The next part of our adventure really begins from this point. The farm stay has sent us a comprehensive set of directions and a map-the roads wind and as we move further away from ooty, the views leave us begging for more. Carpets of green, a stone cottage called Mayfair, the Good Shepherd international school, sign to Love dale all reminiscent of a colonial past. These markers still remain jostling with road and shop signs only in Tamil-Emerald marketplace is the last sign of commercialization(the market place itself being small thatched shanties selling vegetables, fruits and a neon pink barber’s shop).Following the map closely, we take the turn from emerald town centre and are back on hairpin bends.19 small ones and we arrive at the forests.

These are places which you wish to keep secret yet feel the urge to shout .A narrow bridge lends a most astonishing view-the first view of emerald lake made us stop our vehicle. A water body glistening green like liquid jade, surrounded by trees with no human encroachment in sight. To us this was paradise itself...

Reluctantly we drive on- conscious of the first drops of rain. However , we need to lose our way to find the Promised Land!-Missing the turnoff towards the destiny car park(there are no signs) we zoom ahead waiting to reach the farm when luckily we spot a forest guard talking on his mobile. we are told we have missed the turnoff by 50 metres and it takes incredible driving skill to maneuver the Honda machine through the ups and downs of the rocky road and make a u turn!-U turn we did and at last we reach the car park.

In the middle of no where stands an open ground enclosed with a fence. A few cars are parked(surreal in it) and an army jeep awaits with the driver from the resort .By this time, we are tired and shift our bags into the jeep and give our car a well deserved rest.

Destiny..at last!

The final lag of the journey from the car park to the resort is not recommended for anyone suffering from back problems!-there is no road and as we bump and grind our way under the guidance of the driver we are greeted with a heavenly shower. Out of nowhere, emerges a huge lorry and really there is space for only one so our tiny David of an army truck moves aside to let the Goliath go-it makes you wonder of how intrepid our explorers and road makers of yesteryear must have been. And then in the distance we see the gates…

One of the drawbacks of technology is that it can take the “aha” moments away from you. Fortunately we had not seen too many photographs giving away the view of the resort so our first reaction was just a silence screaming wow. Built in a ranch style, the rooms are housed in wooden buildings with green roofs…ensuring that it does not take away from the view -open grasslands of various textures and layers ,dipping into a valley like extension where your eye meets the lake and mist covered mountains.

We are greeted by Molly and Bhaskar with genuine warmth and they set the tone for the next two days. Unpretentious, cozy and exuding a sprit of friendliness, you begin to feel your urban artificiality strip away. We are shown into our rooms and the large double bed, high ceilings and fireplace add to the romance – we are brought down to earth by my four year olds reaction as he trampolines on the large bed!!-A short nap later , we feel refreshed and head for tea at the restraunt.Hot samosas and piping tea , we feel nourished and Bhaskar explains the activities and things to do. Though, I felt like I would be happy just doing nothing!!

(Destiny rooms)

We spent the rest of the evening exploring the resort. Walking through the trails, we stop by the stables. Brave Heart, Destiny’s child and Gypsy look at us bored by all the attention. Their work for the day is done-taking the guests for a short horse rides and now look ready to settle in for the night. W e decide to head back and just sit outside our rooms, watching the view. The resort is full but you don’t feel the crowd-though there was one particular group from the city .The kind of group that you try to steer clear of-they were loud ,bossy ,constantly complaining and had their gizmos running on high volume. Luckily they were on a day package, so dinner was spent with the rest of the guests-who were a lovely mix of couples and families , relaxing and soaking in the atmosphere.

The bonfire is a nice way to meet the other guests.And over sumptuous kebabs and spirits, we met some nice folks from coimbaotore, Calicut and bengalooru~

Sleep came early, comforted by the warmth of a duvet. The nice thing about Destiny is that there are enough things you can engage in – an early morning trek is a good way to whet the appetite. A brisk one hour walk with Bhaskar takes you through trails, a little bit of a climb and a survey of the lake.As our walk came to a close, It is quite a breathless bunch that made their way to breakfast buffet warmed by the offerrings of Poorimasala,omlettes,oats,cereals and juices.!

While a short siesta was what looked promising, the adventurous spirit beckoned to join in some fishing and more walking. Then there are horse rides you can go on in the morning and evening. Destiny also offers trips to the avalanche dam, tractor rides and a horse ride outside the property.Lunch and dinner are served buffet style and while tasty does not offer anything unique-The usual Panner masalas, dhal chicken and noodles.More regional fare would be a welcome addition.

Good bye...

Sure there are snags and delays in service. Even heaven has no room for perfection- your bed coffee might not come on time and the plumbing had a few issues but these minor trespasses are easily forgotten and forgiven.

At the end of the stay, you feel a little tug at your heartstrings-that you must go but you really don’t want to. And that is Destiny’s charm-it offers you mountains, lakes, fresh air and helps you recharge to face the roads ahead. You tell yourself you will come back…

And like Dorothy , you know you must make your way home but somewhere like all good journeys do, Destiny leaves you with an inedible iimpression, renewing your faith in the beauty and mysteries of the universe.

Details: (Stairway to Destiny)

Destiny farmstay is run by the Little Earth group

Their website is: www.littlearth.in